To the Edge: A Journey to Helgoland

I took the ferry from Cuxhaven to Helgoland with one clear goal — to come eye to eye with a Northern Gannet.

Two days, one night. Just a tent, my camera backpack, and the will to wait. The wind howled, the rain didn’t let up, and the cliffs were slick with salt and sea spray.

Northern Gannets (Morus bassanus) are among the largest seabirds in the North Atlantic, renowned for their spectacular plunge-diving. They can dive from heights of up to 30 meters (about 100 feet), piercing the water at speeds of up to 100 km/h (62 mph) to catch fish. Their streamlined bodies and long, pointed wings make them masterful fliers, able to glide effortlessly over the ocean.

But it’s not just their skill that captivates — their striking white plumage, contrasted by black wingtips and a golden-yellow crown, makes them unmistakable against the grey sea and sky. Their piercing blue eyes, set against a bare, black facial skin, give them an almost otherworldly gaze.

In the stormy stillness of Helgoland, amidst wild weather and rugged cliffs, I found it — the moment. A direct gaze from one of the North’s most graceful seabirds. Not just a photograph, but a silent connection, framed by raw weather and wild rock.

Northern Gannets are also highly social, nesting in large, noisy colonies on steep cliffs. They return to the same breeding sites year after year, demonstrating remarkable loyalty. This connection to place, and the harshness of their ocean world, felt mirrored in that gaze.

It was a moment of wildness preserved — a reminder that nature’s edges are where we often find the truest stories.

Here are my top photos, each telling a story about how the Northern Gannets live and survive on Helgoland: